Beyond the Reef

Accomplished wingfoiler and windsurfer Maria Andres is both a lover of the natural world and has adventure running through her veins. On the hunt for a new project, she quickly found that Madagascar ticked all those boxes and then some…

So, having reached out to the perfect travel partner, it was off to the Emerald Sea.

Words: Maria Andres
Photos: Pandora Chiara Socin, Maria Andres, Babaomby Lodge Crew

Some trips are memorable for the breathtaking nature, for the experience, the people – or for the combination of it all. Some others for how it all flows so that every moment is heaven and it only seems to get better. This is a story of both – an unforgettable escape to paradise in the Indian Ocean.

As a travel writer for water sports magazines, I was on the lookout for a remote, paradisiacal place to shoot for some projects. I was looking for a place that hasn't been too exposed, is beautiful and picturesque with good consistent conditions and a fascinating culture. Madagascar popped up as the perfect location… it has been on my bucket list for a while, so it was about time!

I needed a photographer to join me to capture it all, and since I didn't have a travel buddy to join me, I considered Chiara Socin, also a rider for the Duotone team and a talented young photographer, hoping that she would like the plan. Me: “Hey Chiara, nice to e-meet you! I am going to Madagascar for a month to shoot wingfoiling… It's beautiful and windy every day! Do you want to join me?” Chiara: “Madagascar? One month wingfoiling? I’m in!” And that's how it started. We were two strangers heading together into the unknown, ready to have a blast in what we thought was likely to be paradise. The ocean connection is powerful and the love for the wind and the wild had us connected before we knew it.

The adventure begins

We met in Diego Suarez, the closest city to Babaomby at the northern tip in Madagascar, surrounded by the Emerald Sea. We both had long trips with transfers, and board bags, and we were pretty tired, but our excitement levels were very high. We were really looking forward to meeting, so we went out for dinner in Diego, and soon the wine and laughs were flowing back and forth! This was the perfect welcome, we were dialed and ready for whatever was to come.

The next morning, we were packing all of our board bags in a pick-up to then go by boat to Babaomby. Arriving at the launching area we were looking for a motorboat where we could load our gear, but there were only some colorful wooden traditional fishing boats with sails. We were about to discover what was going to be one of the major highlights of this trip…

The traditional Malagasy fishing boats with their beautiful sails are found all around the coast. And these boats aren't just used for fishing; they are the primary means of transportation for both goods and taking tourists on scenic trips. As soon as we got on the boat, we were handed raincoats – in the midst of calm seas and 27 degrees. We exchanged skeptical glances…

We gently sailed upwind, and on reaching the opening of the Diego Suarez Bay the wind turned to 35 knots, they lifted the sail in the high winds, and then we were sailing at full speed and the reason for the coats became clear as the splashes intensified with the speed.

At the entrance of the bay, just before gliding into the lagoon of the Emerald Sea, the whales appeared. Could it get any better?! Then, we crossed the long lagoon of the Emerald Sea until reaching Babaomby, sailing downwind impressively fast, navigating gracefully between islands, channels and shallows.

A playground in Paradise

After a bit of research, it was clear that the most consistent spot for wind and waves in Madagascar was the Emerald Sea. From the information I could compile from the internet I could already figure out this was a water sports playground, far from the crowds. We couldn't wait to get in the water and look around and feel the immensity and beauty of the lagoon by ourselves.

Located north of Madagascar, the Emerald Sea blends as many shades of greens, turquoises, and blues as you can imagine. Protected by dreamy islets and coral reefs, its 12 kilometers in length by three in width invite you to explore it from end-to-end. Due to the geography of the Emerald Sea, being a vast lagoon surrounded by landscapes of dunes, mangroves, reefs, islets, channels, and its changes in depth, both the wind and the waves and currents have a life of their own, offering changes in direction and acceleration zones that only make the spot even richer and more interesting. In just a few kilometers and within navigable distance, you can enjoy ramps for jumps, wave riding, wind swells for downwinders, or flatwater fun.

Bluest of blues

The Emerald Sea is not only a wind machine, but it offers all kinds of interesting conditions for all water sports. All corners and spots are accessible to reach by wing foiling, which is a bonus for freedom and improvisation. Sometimes, we would just cruise around enjoying the speed over the pristine waters, go on excursions with a picnic, and even spend the day island hopping.

One of our favorite activities was to go downwind all the way to the northern part of the lagoon – the “swimming pool”. Sometimes alone, sometimes with other riders from the lodge and the boat sailing next to us. The ride was incredibly entertaining, reading the water surface and enjoying every possible glide.

Arriving at the lagoon, there are a lot of colorful coral heads to fly around and in between, like a tropical underwater maze. By the shore, it is so pristine and flat and the sand gets so white that you see your own shadow chasing you! We loved to spend time down there at the pool and hang out at the shore. We would have a little snack with our new friends in the sandy coves before heading back upwind. This was definitely our favorite place to shoot, the colors were absolutely stunning.

Dreamtime

To ride bigger swells and waves we found our spot in the outer reef of Suarez Island, just outside the lagoon. The swells were quite big some days. Pure adrenaline and long rides from the very outside almost all the way in. There is pretty much no one in this spot, just your friends, some people from the lodge or the instructors. We had some pretty incredible moments there.

There was a memorable session where some guys started to shout and made us signs to follow them outside, so we did. By the time we realized, we were by a humpback whale pod. It was magical. Big and small ones, some cruising by, another slapping the water with its pectoral fin… Seeing a humpback whale up close from your foil is incredible. It was a mix of emotions: fear, excitement, nervous laughter, gratefulness. Once again, the Emerald Sea had us hypnotized.

After riding waves at the reef, we always loved to stop at Suarez Island beach, sheltered from the wind. The spot is incredibly beautiful and calm. Surrounded by corals and a couple of little islands you get a prime view of the waves on the outer reef. This is a place where local boats bring tourists from time to time to spend the day and eat freshly caught grilled fish with tasty coconut rice. This was our place and moment to share with our new friends and the locals: about the session, about life, about our cultures, about food, our visions of life, family, friendship or relations… We had super nice and deep conversations here.

Madagascar is definitely a dream for those seeking adventure and don't mind taking a bit longer to get there, because the reward is paradise on Earth. It was windy every single day and we had so much fun. But like every trip, there is an end. The month went by too quickly. Because of the tide, our departure was at night. While sailing back to Diego Suarez, beautiful memories came to mind… We had heavy hearts for what we were leaving behind… It was bittersweet, as we watched the sail glide against the deepest black sky filled with stars, while again smiling and feeling fortunate, thanking the Universe for everything we had just experienced.